The sun was setting, so we left Villa d’Este and stopped at the church immediately next door. Santa Maria Maggiore, not to be confused with the basilica in the center of Rome, is sometimes referred to as San Francesco. The church has ancient origins, having been built on the remains of a Roman villa. Legend has it that it was founded by Pope Simplicius in the 5th Century C.E.
The present-day entrance is Gothic, dating from the late 14th century. The church was substantially renovated in the 16th century by Cardinal Ippolito II d’Este, the same cardinal who created Villa d’Este out of what had once been a Benedictine monastery.

We were the only visitors, and it was calm and quiet.


Among the church’s treasures are a 13th-century wooden crucifix and a lovely Madonna on the altar.




And it has the Cosmatesque floors that I love so much.


Then it was time to head back to Rome.