L’Archeologia

About thirty years ago, we were exploring the Appian Way. Our feet were tired, and we were hungry. We came upon what appeared to be a very nice restaurant. Although we were in our hiking shoes, we decided to give it a try despite wondering if we would be turned away. But, they graciously ushered us inside. The room they put is in had a rustic countryside cozy-spot feel. We saw why they took us without fuss — fewer than half the tables in the dining room were occupied. Relieved to be off our feet, we had a wonderful, relaxing meal consisting of a two courses and dessert. We have been going back ever since.

L’Archeologia sits smack dab on the Appian Way, just a short walk’s distance from the Mausoleum of Cecilia Metella. According to the restaurant’s website, the building “was an ancient post station for changing horses and a prestigious crossroads for artists and merchants from the Mediterranean,” and by 1804 the building had become a well known tavern.

L’Archeologia, the old “tavern” — enter through the gate on the left.

Today, on Sundays in particular, the place will be full of families and groups of friends. When the weather is nice, there will be kids playing in the garden area. Of course, this being Rome, some people also bring their little dogs. The whole feeling is friendly and warm. And that countryside auberge design… that’s just one space, while other spaces are more modern and open.

The interior: the cosy, countryside elegance embraces patrons with comfort.

Make sure to check out the ancient cellar — you’ll see the little arched door in the back of the restaurant.

You might think its rustic location means they serve rustic, simple food. Well, you’d be wrong. The food: excellent.

Terrific gnocchi

The wine: spectacular (I may have discovered my favorite white wine of all time). Their excellent sommelier is always ready to help!

But it is the kind and lovely staff here that stand out even above everything else, all of whom are consistently top-notch. A truly excellent experience all around, every time, from the moment you arrive.

To our surprise, we ended up there twice over the last few months. The second time — like our very first time all those years ago — we did not have reservations. It was Sunday lunch though, so it was packed. But they graciously accepted us and gave us a complimentary glass of prosecco and some cheese to nibble on while we waited for a table. A mother and daughter (and cute little dog) also came in, without reservations. They ended up seating all of us at two little tables that they quickly set up to accommodate their drop-in guests. Then, as always, they took great care of us. But do not take that beneficence for granted: make a reservation!

While we were dining, not one, but two cakes went by just outside the glass wall we were sitting next to. The cakes looked fabulous. Someone must have been having a wonderful celebration!

Hospitality, Roman style, since 1804 — bravi, L’Archeologia!

To reserve a table, scroll to the bottom of their website’s home page.