The Vatican’s Cortile della Pigna (Courtyard of the Pinecone) is an elegant courtyard framed by a Renaissance building. It’s named for the gigantic ancient Roman pinecone that stands in an enormous concave niche where it is flanked by two peacocks. It’s said the pinecone was one a fountain with water spouting from the top.  It was located near the Pantheon, where there was a temple devoted to the Egyptian goddess Isis (Romans adopted quite a few religious cults from other lands). The pinecone now stands on a platform with two graceful sets of stairs designed by none other than Michelangelo. Appropriately, two Egyptian lions are displayed at the bottom of the steps.

The peacocks are replicas of ones that were found in the Mausoleum of Hadrian (now Castel Sant’Angelo).

What really draws your attention, however, is the large, bronze sculpture in the center of the courtyard: the Sfera con Sfera (Sphere Within a Sphere). The artist responsible for it was the famous Italian sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro (since his name means tomato in Italian, I’ve always imagined that had something to do with his fascination for spheres). It’s been here as long as I can remember, and it never ceases to enthrall me.

It’s an enormous orb, inside of which is a second orb. It’s as if the bronze skin of the outer orb has been peeled back, revealing mechanical gears inside. Then under those gears lies a second, smaller orb, which is also broken open, revealing its interior.

 

 

 

 

 

Yes, the photos show that the sculpture moves. It sometimes spins in the wind (or if some tour guide touches it to make it move). It’s truly cool when it is moving, giving the impression of a planet moving in outer space. It’s just one of the many surprising masterpieces of the Vatican Museums.

Just last month, the artist passed away. But his work will surely be enjoyed by many for decades to come.