We’re just back from Rome, having spent time for our heavy-duty spring cleaning and re-stocking of the apartment (we also upgraded our television and video disc player). The weather was pretty much perfect, the food was great, and we got to see some sights we had been hoping to see for a long time (more on that later). Here are our thoughts on Rome in Spring, 2025:

• Rome is not drowning in Jubilee crowds. Quite the opposite, in fact. Our bookings are down for 2025, and our contacts in the hospitality industry are all saying the same thing. One of the most reliable sources of information — Roman taxi drivers — also told us the same thing. Many people read that there would be millions more people for the Jubilee, so they chose to postpone their trip to the following year. We saw this too: guests canceled for 2025 and asked for 2026 reservations. So, we are thinking, 2026 could end up busier than 2025. Now, we’re not saying that Rome isn’t busy.  It is.  It’s just that the massive crowds of Jubilee pilgrims plus regular tourists did not materialize, and tourism is actually down or flat in 2025.

 

 

 

 

• There have definitely been improvements to the city’s infrastructure and services over the last year or two. Some improvements were for the Jubilee, but will have long-lasting impacts. For one thing, we’re seeing more taxis available, definitely a blessing after taxi shortages of prior years. There are more police out and about, especially on the metro. There are hundreds more trash cans all over the city. All good things! That being said, though, getting a taxi on a Friday or Saturday night can still be a challenge. We just plan to go to dinner at a place within walking distance on those nights. Otherwise, call or schedule a taxi or other service using an app and build in extra time to get to your destination.

 

• Rome is becoming more and more upscale, returning to the days of Dolce Vita chic and elegance. We met a friend for drinks at the new Bulgari hotel’s lovely rooftop bar and had a superb dinner at the elegant Alain Ducasse restaurant in the knock-your-socks-off new hotel Romeo (with ancient Roman ruins in the basement, which the kindly concierge showed us). The redevelopment of Piazza Augusto Imperatore, where the Bulgari hotel is, is underway. We expect the result to be pretty impressive — the first stage has just been completed, and the pedestrian area in front of the Mausoleum of Augustus opened in early June. Closer to home, our little neighborhood is waiting for the new Four Seasons to open down the street at Piazza San Silvestro (much work appears to be remain).  

 

• The Rome food scene keeps getting better and better – but it still pays to do your homework on where to eat, and what to eat. An old favorite, The Gin Corner, returned with a vengeance, and it is gorgeous. One new favorite this trip was Il Marchese: an airy bistro with good food that was also Rome’s first amaro bar (kudos to the incredibly helpful bartender who walked us through our amaro choices).

 

• Our usual advice still applies about planning. Definitely do it; just don’t over plan (since “things happen”). Also, get advance tickets to the top sights (we were incredibly lucky to get tickets to the blockbuster Caravaggio 2025 show when they released additional tickets, otherwise we would have missed it). Make reservations for restaurants too — at least some of the time (we tend to make reservations for dinner but not so often for lunch).

• No matter how crowded Rome is, however, you can still find ways to get away from the crowds. We enjoyed a beautiful cloister in complete peace and quiet (except for seagulls), a couple of jazz performances (including one at Mussolini’s old house), and saw some incredible sights — all incredible and peaceful experiences. Despite the chaos and difficulties the caput mundi presents, Rome continues to offer up some simply amazing moments. 

 

 

• Across the alley from us, the former “Delizioso” is becoming a “Pizza in Trevi” location (promising the “P.I.T. Experience,” whatever that is). Looks like it opened a few days after we left Rome.

• Work continues on our dear old palazzo. Work in the interior courtyard is almost done so we hope the scaffolding on the side will be down very soon (thank you again to our guests for their patience in dealing with this!). Yes, its completion is late. And, still no date on the renovation to the foyer and stairwell. Things just take a bit longer in Rome.