One of the greatest things about Rome is discovering the many beautiful treasures that are often hidden away. You might walk right by them, if you didn’t know. Making it harder to find them is that some are open only rarely.

This hidden gem at Via di San Marcello, 41 is only open about an hour a day. The first time I tried to see it, well, the caretaker just didn’t show that day, and so the gate remained locked. I walked by this church several times, but never at the right time. Then Covid hit, and more than three years later, I tried again.  This time the gates were open! So I walked down a tiny alley (seen above), to this tiny church.

Above the door was a dedication plaque, and to the left of the door, mounted on the wall, were the church’s little bells, since there is no bell tower.

This church — supposedly Rome’s smallest — has a long name:  Santa Maria Causa Nostrae Laetitiae. It was built in 1851 by the Roman architect Virginio Vespignani. At the center of the church’s interior is a painting of the Madonna dating from 1690, by the painter Domenico Maria Muratori. This young Madonna has an inherent sweetness while she gazes right at you.

She was not always a celebrated altarpiece, as she is now. She started as a simple Madonnella, a street shrine. This painting is apparently on a ceramic tile that was once affixed to a public location by the Marchesa Muti Papuzzuri-Savorelli, who had commissioned the painting.

In 1696, however, people witnessed that the Madonna moved her eyes, and thus she became famous. The Marchesa had the icon moved to a more sheltered spot under an archway — which is why the church is also known as Santa Maria dell’Archetto.

In 1796, the miracle happened again, and some people even said she wept (which was interpreted as an omen of the future French invasion of the Papal States). It was time to move her into a more dignified and protected place — this little church. It was built by a descendant of the original Marchesa, which seems very fitting.

It truly is a lovely little jewel. 

 

 

There’s a gorgeous and delicate dome, the perfect lid for this gilded jewel box.

 

 

 

 

Costantino Brumidi, an artist born in Rome, worked on this glorious little dome. This is yet another reason why Rome always resonates with me. To my surprise, I discovered the same artist painted the frescoes of the dome of the Capitol Building in Washington, DC. Apparently, he immigrated to escape a legal problem back in Rome!

The day we visited we sat quietly alone, but despite its age and diminutive size this is an active church. It even has what appears to be a lovingly well-maintained Facebook page. Nice to know that this beautiful church is also very much loved.