We just returned from our second trip to Rome this year. Rome was surprisingly busy with lots of French, Spanish, German, East European, and North American visitors even though November is normally “low” season. The crowds included Americans spending the Thanksgiving holiday in Rome, as we did. Perhaps this is due to people still wanting to travel after Covid lock downs, or enjoying the recently appreciated US dollar. But, this is the busiest we have seen it in November.

That being said, the giant crowds of summer and early fall were gone, and it was the first time in years we were able to walk right up to the Mouth of Truth ….

Lots of wonderful free (or close to free) concerts and events were going on. We enjoyed the “Museums in Music” (Musei in Musica), with one-euro entry fee, at a local art museum and enjoyed an art exhibit about Pier Paolo Pasolini’s days as a young artist.

Rome continues to recover from the economic effect of Covid. One bar we thought was permanently closed has, instead, now re-opened. Alas, the little coffee bar in our palazzo and an art gallery up the street both closed during Covid, and those spaces remain shuttered. But, almost all places around us are again in business, and some new places have opened, too. Around town, there were lots of signs about Black Friday sales, so for those looking for deals, November is a good time to visit Rome.

We were in Rome for Thanksgiving Day. Thanksgiving is, obviously, not an Italian thing. Luckily for us, however, we went to the stylish Brunello Bar and Restaurant for a lovely Thanksgiving dinner, Italian-style. Our meal started with a welcome flute of sparkling wine, and an amuse-bouche.

The next course was a pumpkin and sheep’s milk ricotta cheese timbale on leek cream with crispy guanciale on top.

Of course, there must be a pasta course. Ours was ravioli stuffed with sweet potato, with bit of truffle and Pecorino — warm and soothing, and perfect for the season. 

As for the turkey, the Italians can do a great one! This was a turkey roll, with chestnuts (something Romans love in the fall, more on that in a future post), apples, and plums. Instead of mashed potatoes, there was a pleasant potato and shallot pie.

Dessert was a pumpkin crème brulée with dark chocolate mousse and chestnuts.

The cost was €80 per person, including tax, water, and coffee. Of course we added a few glasses of nice wine. All in all, a wonderful Thanksgiving dinner, and without any weird cranberry sauce. Brunello is just up Via Veneto, which currently is featuring giant crustaceans. More on that in a future post, too.

The weather was lovely, averaging a high temperature in the low 60s F (17 C). The city felt energized and there were lots of fun art exhibits going on. November is truly a terrific time to visit the Eternal City. As we left, the Christmas decorations were going up on Via dei Condotti.