It’s been years since I last visited to Palazzo Barberini, although it’s an easy walk from The Spanish Steps Apartment. I was therefore delighted to go again.

The museum, housed in a magnificent palazzo, was practically empty on the October day we visited. Our covid vaccination cards were carefully checked against our passports, and in we went. Masks were required, and everyone obeyed the rules.
The museum is chock full of works by Rome’s premier bad boy/genius, Caravaggio. At the top of this post is his glorious Judith Beheading Holofernes.

One thing I love about Caravaggio is he wasn’t afraid to make women both strong and feminine (Michelangelo could have taken a lesson from Caravaggio on this latter point). This is a beautiful yet fearsome Judith. Although her brow is slightly furrowed, she does not exhibit a twinge of remorse as she slices the throat of Holofernes, the blood spurting from his neck, his mouth open in a scream. It’s violent and sensual at the same time. The sensuality is not just Judith’s beauty but also Holofernes’ strong, naked body — we know she’s just seduced him a few minutes earlier as part of her assassination plan. It’s a powerful and disturbing painting.
And, the Caravaggios keep coming…



But there is more. There’s Raphael‘s girlfriend, the pretty Baker’s daughter:

A lovely Mary Magdalene:

I’m a big fan of Bronzino:

The palazzo has, of course, the obligatory Bernini masterpieces, this is only one of many:

I could go on and on — the museum is vast, and the treasures are many.
When you go to Palazzo Barberini, keep in mind that the Barberini family’s symbol was the bee. If you keep your eyes open, you’ll undoubtedly find some of them!

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