Santa Maria sopra Minerva

If you’ve followed our blog for a while, you know I love Roman floors. But I also love all the magnificent blue ceilings in Rome, one of which I noted in our last post. My favorite blue ceiling, however, is located in a church behind the Pantheon, and behind the wonderful little elephant carrying an obelisk on his back (“Minerva’s Chick“), by Bernini.

Santa Maria sopra Minerva

Santa Maria sopra Minerva is a favorite church of mine in Rome. We start with its wonderful name, Saint Mary above Minerva, reflecting that this church was allegedly built over a temple to the goddess Minerva. In reality, it was most probably built over a temple dedicated to the Egyptian goddess Isis (back in the day when all things Egyptian were popular in Rome). But either way, it is clear this church was built and named to show the dominance of the Catholic Church over a pagan religion — like so much of Rome.

It’s an unusual church for Rome, due to its Neogothic interior (over older Renaissance and Gothic elements). There’s beautiful stained glass, painting, sculpture, and memento mori everywhere you look.

Inside the church, looking Gothic
The Coronation of Saint Rose of Lima, by Lazzaro Baldi

But what gets me is the sight of those beautiful blue ceilings, decorated with stars, and heavenly figures:

Oh those beautiful blue ceilings!

One of the greatest treasures of the church is the Carafa Chapel decorated by Filippino Lippi — his only work in Rome. It is truly breathtaking.

One of Santa Maria’s frescoes — this one in the Carafa Chapel
The vault of Santa Maria’s Carafa chapel

Oh, and there’s also a statue of Christ by Michelangelo.

Michelangelo’s Christ — who clearly worked out and limited the carbs (the metal modesty drape was added long after Michelangelo carved it)

If you have never visited this church before, make sure to see it, and go enjoy the Pantheon again as well. And if you want to visit the church virtually, while we all wait out the end of COVID, click here.