Dinner at Assaje

We are working our way through the Michelin star restaurants in Rome, one here, one there. Well, here’s another one. It’s located a short taxi ride away, in the elegant Adrovandi Villa Borghese hotel. Last time I came here, the restaurant was Oliver Glowig, by the chef of that same name — a place I did not enjoy, and which later closed. Now, it’s a new restaurant, Assaje, under chef Claudio Mengoni.

Assaje is in the same cavernous white space — which I still find cold and daunting. However, the weather being lovely, we dined outside on the terrace, with a nice view of the garden (shown in the top of this post), along with several other guests. A much better experience.

It started with a glass of complimentary sparkling wine. We each chose two dishes and a dessert from the a la carte menu, and it was exactly the right amount of food, along with the several amuse bouche. We asked the sommelier for wine by the glass for each course, and he happily obliged.

The first amuse bouche – a tuna “sandwich” with mayonnaise

Laura ordered some pasta that arrived looking like a jewel box, and which was terrific:

Home made marvelous cheese tortellini with seared tuna

I had a fabulous seafood risotto, full of both texture and taste:

Risotto with sea urchin, anchovies, tomato water, and fennel-scented “Frisella” bread

Since it was still quite warm out, we had lighter second courses. Laura had a tasty little beef tartare:

Diced Fassona beef with rustic mustard, radish and black truffle

I went for an amberjack carpaccio, and it was lovely:

Amberjack marinated in tomato water, “sea asparagus,” avocado and apple

Then there was another little amuse bouche and, since we had kept the food to the right amount to leave desert, some fruity sweets:

Amuse bouche of mango sorbet

 

A “Si” of mango and coconut mousse, white chocolate and popcorn

 

Lemon Bavaroise, with pistacchio custard, pineapple, and raspberry mousse

We were perfectly full with the appetizer, main, and desert.  Otherwise, the tasting menu was 4 or 6 courses. The menu is focused on fish (although there are also several meat choices), and the food is both beautiful and delicious.  Our bill for two came to about 250 euros which is pretty reasonable, in my opinion, for fine dining in Rome.

The service was attentive and friendly, the food excellent — just what I would expect from a restaurant of this caliber. One thing that could stand improvement is the music — odd remakes of “Smoke on the Water” and “Like a Virgin” that border on muzak. The music actually made us laugh, it was so bad … and even funnier, we encountered similar music at other places on this trip.  Weird.  But, overall, two thumbs up for Assaje.

UPDATE:  Alas, Assaje has closed.

Published by spanishstepsapartment

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In the heart of Rome's Historic Center, between the beautiful Spanish Steps and the famous Trevi Fountain, this luxury two bedroom, two bathroom apartment is surrounded by fine dining and fabulous shopping. It is within walking distance of the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, and many other historic sites and museums, and near the subway, taxi stands, bus stops, and bike rental. Located in a traditional Roman palazzo, the apartment was fully renovated in late 2010 and is now available for vacation and short-term rental.