That’s me as a little kid in the picture above. The photo made its way home to me thanks to my friends at the American University of Rome, an institution that my family has long had ties to. Forgive me for lying on an ancient Roman altar — I was probably only five or so at the time. Umbrella pines and the remains of a wall are in the background.

I couldn’t make out where the photo had been taken, but amazingly the internet helped solve the mystery. My wife Laura suggested we just search for the words we could make out on the altar: “Deo Invicto Herculi Hostilius ….” And, lo and behold, the full text of the inscription appeared,
DEO
INVICTO HERCVLI
HOSTILIVS ANTIPATER
V(ir) P(erfectissimus) PRAEF(ectus) ANN(onae)
CVRAT(or) REI PVBLIC(ae) OST(iensium)
As you can figure out from the last word, “Ostiensium,” the altar is in what we today call Ostia Antica, one of my favorite easy jaunts from the apartment. And, as you may have deduced, it is an altar dedicated to the demi-god Hercules. The entire translation, noted in a scholarly article, is, “Ostilius Antipater, vir perfectissimus, prefect of the grain-supply and curator of the town of Ostia [erected this altar] for Hercules, the Unconquered God.” The altar stood at the Temple of Hercules, in the heart of Ostia, once a critical port for Rome.
Ostia Antica is an ancient city frozen in time. It’s close enough to Rome’s historic center to make for a perfect half or full-day trip — perfect if you’re looking for something like Pompeii but don’t have the time for that day-trip.
And, it could not be easier to get to Ostia. Take the Metro to Piramide, where you change to the commuter rail — all on the same 1.50 euro ticket. It’s maybe a 30 minute ride on the commuter rail, then a short walk to the archaeological park. It’s just 10 euros to enter — and absolutely free on the first Sunday of the month!
Ostia is a large archaeological site with many things to see. The surrounding beautiful trees offer some nice shady areas perfect for a picnic. There’s also a small, serviceable cafeteria. Here are some photos from my last trip there.








More photos, on the wonderful black and white mosaics of Ostia Antica, in my next blog post.
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